The complete teaching version of each module: every unit, every lesson, and the published evidence behind each claim. Two tracks, the same two as the quick library. Full courses open for enrolled Academy students, apart from Complete Elixir Product, which is open to everyone.
Each full course is the same subject as its quick reference, taught properly rather than summarised. The quick references stay open to every approved professional, so you can read the summary of any module before deciding, and the Complete Elixir Product course is open in full so you can see exactly how a course is built.
Alum Water Protocol is a quick reference only and has no full course.
Mechanism, ingredients, conditions and product knowledge, taught lesson by lesson. These are the courses everything else refers back to, and the protocols below assume them. The one marked in red is open to everyone; the rest of the track opens for enrolled Academy students.
Reading a skin by function rather than by symptom, taught in full across four units.
The five epidermal layers and what each one is actually doing, the dermal matrix, the complete receptor table, the temperature bands and how retained heat becomes pigment, skin condition against skin type, and the order in which a skin is normalised.
Built from Lecture 4, Lecture 5, the Kimpo seminar and the Staff Study Guide Skin, referenced from PubMed.
Every product, its role, what it pairs with and where it does not belong. This full course is open to everyone, quick reference and all twelve lessons.
An ingredient is not a formula, the four layers of evidence behind any product claim, compatibility and stability engineering, and patch testing with gradual introduction.
Then the three families. Youth Saver and which two of the five are recovery centred, Complete Care organised by job rather than strength, and the Professional Care back bar with its own rules. The consultation unit turns a concern into the smallest routine that answers it, and the last lesson covers special conditions, storage and exactly which claims you may make. Four units.
Sixteen ingredients, one lesson each, across six units. The longest course in the library.
Vitamin C in every form that reaches a formula, with Tocopherol as its partner. Retinoids across the whole conversion chain, and Bakuchiol beside them. Ceramide NP, AP and EOP, Argan oil, Colloidal oatmeal and Sodium PCA. Sodium hyaluronate taught by molecular weight, with NAG, Panthenol and Beta-glucan. Centella asiatica, Aloe vera, Niacinamide and NMN.
Every claim carries its evidence level, and the ingredients with thin evidence are named as such.
The barrier is not moisture. It is a control system, and the full course carries the mechanistic evidence for that.
The six stage collapse from stimulus through receptor activation, inflammation, lipid breakdown and rising water loss to hypersensitivity, then the five stage recovery in order.
Two findings drive the whole course. Applying one or two of the three barrier lipids delays recovery rather than helping. And water loss after disruption is not only the damage, it is the signal that switches on lipid synthesis.
A cleanser is not a debris remover. It is the gate that decides whether skin opens or shuts down.
Why harsh cleansing closes channels rather than cleaning better, what double cleansing actually removes, choosing an oil by fatty acid profile, why linoleic rich oils suit acne prone skin, what low pH protects, and surfactant systems in full.
Includes the four reasons people break out after an oil cleanser. Three units, built from Lecture 2 and referenced from PubMed.
Three routes produce the same mark, and the route decides the active. Four units.
Oxidative pigment needs antioxidants, which act twice: scavenging reactive oxygen species and reducing dopaquinone back to L-DOPA so the chain cannot complete. A continuously activated melanocyte needs tyrosinase inhibition. Inflammation driven pigment needs the inflammatory signal disrupted, and that is where tranexamic acid has its evidence.
The last unit covers why an energy treatment on an already activated melanocyte can amplify pigment, and what pre and post treatment cover actually does.
Why a herbal serum, why tranexamic acid instead, and how to tell which client is in front of you.
Load redness comes from oxidative and inflammatory burden on a normal vessel, and it is the route Centella, green tea, chamomile and calendula were made for. Structural redness is persistent erythema with a vessel network that innate immune signalling has already rebuilt, and an antioxidant cannot remove a vessel.
Topical green tea before exposure lowered oxidative markers while four weeks of oral green tea did not protect against ultraviolet erythema, which is a clean lesson in route and timing. Three units, referenced from PubMed.
Acne does not start at the surface. It starts in growth signalling.
The growth hormone to IGF-1 pathway, why dairy connects to acne through insulinotropic signalling rather than lactose, leucine and mTORC1, why puberty acne behaves differently, and adult acne and insulin resistance.
A meta analysis found dairy overall, total milk, low fat milk and skim milk associated with acne while yogurt and cheese were not, and a case control study of 225 teenagers found skim and low fat milk significant with no difference in total dairy, saturated fat or glycaemic load. That pattern fits the protein mechanism rather than the fat or the lactose. Scope stays inside what an esthetician may do.
Barrier, immune signalling and itch as one connected loop, with the scope boundary built into the material.
Why the barrier defect is often structural rather than neglect, why atopic itch runs largely outside the histamine pathway, and why heat sits on the same neurons as the itch signal. The seven observations, the differentials, and the Green, Yellow and Red safety gate with its red flags.
The strongest evidence in the course is the least glamorous: consistent emollient use produced fewer flares, a median time to flare of 180 versus 30 days, and less corticosteroid needed, while the same review found no reliable evidence that one moisturiser is better than another. Four units. Builds on Barrier Control and Recovery.
Phenotype, mechanism, medical treatment and referral, with the treatment room kept inside its scope.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition of the central face, recorded by phenotype rather than squeezed into a subtype. Flushing against persistent erythema, the differentials against acne, seborrhoeic and contact dermatitis, and the eye symptoms no client mentions unless asked.
Then the innate immune and neurovascular pathways at the level of evidence they actually have, medical treatment by finding with the GRADE certainty behind it, what the treatment room sets aside as a store operating standard, home care and the maintenance phase, and referral in three tiers. Builds on Barrier Control and Recovery and Redness.
Separating ingredient evidence from finished product evidence, and saying which rung you are standing on.
NAD biology has a clean causal experiment behind it. NMN skin research is mostly cell and reconstructed skin work, and its clearest finding is age dependent: no apparent effect on young melanocytes, marked reduction of melanin in aged ones. The randomised human trials of NMN exist and are all oral, which is the assumption a well read client will bring in.
Then the formulation problem, with numbers. In plain water at room temperature NMN loses ten percent in about ninety five hours, driven by temperature and pH. Four units, including the language to use in consultation and the language to avoid.
Where every skin decision is actually made. The companion full course to Skin Foundation.
The nucleolus to ribosome to protein route that explains why a good ingredient sometimes does nothing. Mitochondria, and why aging skin is often energy short skin. The lysosome and autophagy picture that connects cellular clearance to pigment and barrier.
Closes on the clinical connection: what a fibroblast in defense mode will not build, and how to say that to a client without overclaiming.
Ten lessons on how much, in what base and on whose skin, with every regulatory number read from the regulation and every claim cited from PubMed.
Unit one covers why preservation exists and why dose and formula decide tolerance, from documented contamination outbreaks to the hurdle approach. Unit two works through parabens, phenoxyethanol, the formaldehyde releasers including diazolidinyl urea, IPBC and the iodine arithmetic, the isothiazolinones, the organic acids and multifunctionals, and natural preservation including grapefruit seed extract adulteration.
Unit three is practice: reading an INCI list that does not disclose concentrations, taking a named preservative history, answering paraben-free questions, and the order of decisions from history to referral. Three units, worked examples throughout.
What you actually run in the room, with the screening, the stop criteria and the recovery stages taught in full. Each one names the theory it rests on. Alum Water Protocol belongs to this track but is a quick reference only, so it is not repeated here.
One written protocol, built from published device guidance and the clinical literature.
Opens on the indication boundary. Across SkinPen Precision, the Dermalogica Pro Pen and Dr. Pen, the stated indication is facial acne scars, and the consumer pen is explicitly not a medical device. Everything past that is marketing, and the course gives you the sentence to say instead.
Then scope of practice, screening and contraindications, infection control and the single use cartridge rule, depth by anatomical area, pass technique and the tissue response endpoint, the recovery timeline, the realistic size of the effect, and how to recognise, manage and refer a complication.
One stage stimulates, six stages recover. The Complete Elixir treatment, taught end to end.
What a microchannel actually is and how long it stays open: barrier function returns in hours and channels close within about half a day when exposed to air, but stay open substantially longer under occlusion. That single contrast governs the entire home care plan.
Screening and stop criteria, infection control and the single use rule, what may and may not touch an open channel, depth by area with the tissue response endpoint, and the Day 0 to Day 3 plan that advances on skin condition rather than the calendar. Four units. Builds on the Standardised Microneedling Protocol.
A protocol built around recovery rather than intensity, and the frequency evidence that explains why.
Cavitation is the dominant mechanism and heat is minor. The honest part: therapeutic ultrasound at 1 to 3 megahertz is reported to enhance transdermal transport typically by less than tenfold, while the dramatic figures in trade material come from 20 kilohertz laboratory equipment. One direct comparison found no significant increase at 10 megahertz at all.
Screening and the four overriding rules, the serum mix, coupling and glide, time and output as one decision, zone pathways, and the recovery stages that decide the result. Four units, device neutral.
Not every reaction after a new active is purging. Decide continue, reduce, pause or refer.
Three different things get called purging and only one of them is purging. Irritant contact dermatitis occurs in roughly 85 percent of topical retinoid users, which means the reaction in front of you is more likely to be the common one.
Then the three dials you actually control. Frequency, against a measured recovery curve. Concentration, as a pairing between the active and the skin rather than a number on a bottle. Contact time, which has the best evidence of the three: short contact tretinoin cut mild irritation to 17.6 percent and discontinuation to 5.4 percent with efficacy the authors call superimposable. Three units.